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Lights glisten like raindrops, on the skeletal branches, of the trees flanking the Champs Elysees. Store windows, opulently dressed with, silken drapes, sparkling jewels , and animated marionettes, promise luxury and whimsy. The scent of roasting chestnuts, sold on every corner by ebony faced vendors, spices the air. The heat of a thousand candles , flickering in the shadowy nave of the Cathedral Notre Dame, warms the hearts and faces of the truly devout. Cozy cafes, with their big picture windows and tiny chairs, offer hot chocolate and Christmas jazz. And in the black and white world of commerce, cosmopolitan stores, boldly, elegantly, post furry red trees on either side of their doors, or hang packages, wrapped shiny pink paper from their ceilings. It is Christmas in Paris.